The Orphanage

Lusaka boasts a small but extremely dedicated expatriate community, whose members work for various NGO's that share a common mission: to treat and prevent the spread of HIV/AIDS. It is estimated that 920,000 in a nation of 12 million are infected, and there are currently over 1 million children orphaned in Zambia as a result of AIDS deaths. Fortunately the global community has taken notice. My friend Menal (who mercifully picked me up from the airport!), whom I know from Columbia has been working in Zambia for two years with the Center for Infectious Disease Research in Zambia, an organization currently integrating TB and HIV treatment (the two diseases have destructive synergy). I've also met the national director of the PEPFAR program (President's Emergency Program for AIDS Relief), President Bush's multi-billion dollar aid package to sub-Saharan Africa.

On the day I arrived in Lusaka, Menal and some of her friends were scheduled to visit a local AIDS orphanage that they've supported for some time. Despite my intense jet lag, I couldn't help but go along. When we got out of the car, a dozen children ran outside and collectively threw their arms around us. Most were 13 and under, though because of malnourishment and disease it was difficult to tell. We then divided up a pile of children's books and read in small groups for about half an hour. Hickory Dickory Dock was the clear favorite for my set. Afterwards, one of Menal's friends gathered everyone in the living room to hand out home-made gifts that his aunt had custom made: collections of knicknacks contained in painted cigarette boxes (a bad habit put to a good use!). These included glow in the dark stars. The children instinctively came to me (the tallest member of the group) to charge their stars near the overhead lamp. Cheesy symbolism aside, the moment was very, very touching.....